Sunday, January 23, 2011

Black & White





My cabin walls are the only barrier between sub zero winds and the ambient forty eight degrees I wake up to. The silent hum of the wind turbines accelerating and braking with each gust can be compared to a soothing light drizzle on a tin roof.  Although these walls are the first line of defense, they are only moderately effective as a slight breeze can be felt on every door jam, window sill, corner, crack and visible crevice.

The nights have been alive most of this month, with howling winds and swaying shadows produced by a full moon. But in the last week, with heavy cloud cover and the absence of a moon, have made nights much darker than before. Black and never ending is my expectation and feeling of every dusk than begins a new night. Unrelated in scenery but comparable in description of a black abyss, is the color of water after washing my pants for the first time in almost four months. It was.... nice to have clean pants.

Snow fields on high mountain sides, snow fields in the tundra below. Through the forest and covering the alders, being whipped across the ice capped lake and piling up random drifts in the most unpredictable variations of size and shape.
I would dare say that looking outside, facing the wind, no one could open their eyes enough to see where they might walk. The snow is not falling, it is not going in any sort of a downward movement than can be seen, it only is going sideways and occasionally at an upwards angle. It is blinding and relentless as if someone has thrown you into the snow for a traditional white washing, white is all that can be seen.

Between the blackest of nights and the whitest of days, my world of color is confined to a two room cabin that I have hardly left in the last week. The visions of what I would do if I were up here, all the grand romanticized emotions and actions are now quite tamed after almost four months of solitary life.
I am learning about myself, about others in my life and yet others whom I do not know. I have found it much easier to tolerate people when I am not around them, among other conclusions about my own life and choices made. There have been many good days up here, but there have also been the challenges of my own mind, my own obstacles to overcome that offer plenty of days that are not so good.

This learning experience has been a daily challenge. There have been few physical difficulties to overcome, leaving the majority of issues to a mental struggle. I know that lessons I learn subconsciously will prove their worth in later times of angst. I am certain that the time up here will be not spent how I had envisioned, but rather in a much slower, less glorified manner with a strong emphasis on endurance.

The truth of the matter is, I cannot fish every day, I cannot fight off a Grizzly with my bare hands. I cannot hunt and trap to sustain my needs of survival. I cannot fashion a rocking chair using only my Leatherman or pretend to be some twenty first century Jeremiah Johnson for a winter. I have lost most ideas of why I came up here, why I thought this was such an incredible thing and why I felt so compelled to leave most all sense of civilization behind.
I figured what I would get out of this experience would be far different, far more worldly and far less demanding.
There is nothing I can think of better than this moment of realization. Realizing that although the constraints of living alone in the wilderness are exciting and adventuresome, they are also depriving.
Realizing that what it takes to survive is more than merely food, shelter and water.
Realizing that when you think that you are a strong and independent person, you find the cracks and holes where the breeze comes through and weaknesses are revealed.





            My meal preparation and presentation has diminished rapidly and it would seem that I might be priding myself on creating the most unappetizing, unappealing foods just for the sake of consuming food.
This is a sad day for myself to admit that, a lack of passion for cuisine and presentation.
Goulash... that is what I have been eating. A random stew/mixture of the most horrid combinations.
Example:  one can of kidney beans, one can of yellow hominy and crab cakes made into a scramble/hash sort of  "goulash"
OR... a thirteen bean soup mixture with sole fillets mashed in, once plain, once with adding crab, once with adding chicken and every time using at least a half a bottle of hot sauce.
Goulash is what I'm making, it doesn't smell great, doesn't look great, but tastes.... better than bad.

Here are some pictures of my food supply, drink supply, a completely unorganized freezer and my little stove.
















Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Zzz PLANE! Zzz PLANE!



This looks like the perfect start to a perfect day... fishing, alone in the wilderness and not so much as a breath of wind to be seen or felt. The day actually turned ugly rather quickly after the sun fully came up, only to disappear again. I was unable to fish that day, but have since been out in the boat on the far side of the river, trying to raise interest and a bite from the depths below.
Twisting and turning, flashing the silvery white tones of the belly was a trout more beautiful than my words can describe. The red stripe down the side was that of  the wild cranberries, the green like the darkened winter needles of a spruce and the length, well it was short enough to measure with a yard stick but just barely.  His head was large, over grown, showing what potential is there in growth and looking like he will make an angler or two quite upset about loosing their fly to a "monster", ever growing in size each time the story is told. The eyes were golden like the aspen leaves after the first frost with a perfectly black pupil, making a fish eye quite attractive and unique.
Everything about this fish was magnificent, challenging and special. I was pleased to pull him alongside my boat, and scoop down with the net, unhook and for a moment, I forgot that my fingers were frozen, the icicles hanging from my hair and even the fact that my left boot was full of water.

The best part about this fight, was the family of five otters that came floating down, seeing the splashing and the hearing the song my reel played as the give and take game wore on. Their heads bobbed just above the surface right past my boat, leaving my fish alone and allowing for the catch, and then a release. It was a great time to forget my camera, although with the earlier plunge in the water, it might not have survived.



Most recently, my expeditions have been bundled up tightly to go crashing the the forest, disturbing the silence that extends for hours. Woodcutting is part of my job, and collecting a hopeful eight cords is what I am aiming for. This is the start, and although it doesn't look like much, it feels like it.

I do enjoy the falling of trees, the attempt to perfect the wedge cut, directing where the tree falls, not too far to the right or left, not snagging in trees or worst of all, only partly falling over. I have been about 80% accurate so far, one went the wrong way, pinching the saw, one fell over about 3/4 of the way, and I think that's about it.
I cut them into sections, ranging from four to five feet or so, large enough to make work easier, but small enough to handle with snowshoes and many layers of clothing. The journey from the cutting site to the drop off at the lodge is about a half mile, maybe a fraction more, but its not that bad. There are plenty of chances to take in that short distance, crossing several creeks that have thin coverings of ice, slopes that pull the sled towards the lake and often completely turning it around, and other obstacles like rocks and ditches, alder bushes and the occasional instance of a missing driver.... yes that is me, sprawled out on the ice with all my gas, oil, chainsaw and accessories, while my sled is in the other direction, on its side.




I keep a backpack on, containing a satellite phone, sleeping bag, flashlight, and a few other good ideas.




Now for the good stuff :




I was not doing anything in particular yesterday afternoon, when the familiar yet forgotten noise of a single engine plane came rumbling in from over the distant mountains. Making two or maybe three passes, naturally my hermit style instincts were to stay inside my shell. So to the window I went with binoculars hard pressed to my eyes, searching the skies for any information, any recognition of who might be paying a visit.
Up the lake corridor it headed, only to circle around and come back, flying lower than safely desired had I been aboard. It came at me. Passing the ice cap and now into the blue water, an unknown object came flying out or falling off of the plane, smashing down into the wind swept water. SPLASH! and a loud fly by overhead, and off the plane went. I kept my eyes peeled, searching back and forth trying to pinpoint the area, using the help of a few birds that briefly went in to investigate. I put on my boots, coat, gloves and raced out the door with my binoculars, heading towards the area, doing my best to dodge apartment size sheets of thick ice floating down stream.
The wind was not suitable for boating, much less a search and recovery of an unknown object just hurled from a plane. I searched until my fingers were numb, my eyes watering from the wind and dizzy from the waves and constant change from binocular to bare eyes.
No recovery was made, no object was seen floating, and just when I thought things were settling in up here, the sky starts falling.























Saturday, January 1, 2011

~ Heat Wave ~



Most people, including myself usually describe special circumstances or situations that need a reference point with dramatic exaggerations of the truth. Today my descriptions of the weather and other events are extreme and wild enough that exaggerating in any fashion is almost impossible.

Its New Years day, (Happy New Year to all) and it began last night with the warming climate from the negative double digits to a startling twenty above and snow falling in more of a ice dust than flake. As the Night wore on, the temperature progressively warmed to produce flakes the size of quarters but only for a moment before the wind started. Between a very poor choice of movie to start and finish, there were drifts of twelve inches of new snow and by morning there would be over thirty inch drifts.

Restless was at best how my night was, trembling and shaking violently, the cabin was feeling like it had eaten a bit of bad Chinese food. The wind was gale force, and by definition:

A gale is a very strong wind. There are conflicting definitions of how strong. The U.S. government's National Weather Service defines a gale as 34–47 knots (63–87 km/h, 17.5–24.2 m/s or 39–54 miles/hour) of sustained surface winds.[1] Forecasters typically issue gale warnings when winds of this strength are expected.

I first awoke to the leaking of the window seal above my head, drip,drip,drip,drip..... between three and four drops per second, it was no time to put the pillow over my head and ignore the potential flooding situation.
drip,drip,drip,drip.... at the foot of my bed, in the wood stove room over my work bench.... it was a ship that had been tossed in the rocks or more likely for me, hit an iceberg and started taking on water.

Trees bent in half, but only in one direction as these gusts came to try and take me away. I thought a time or two that whoever had built the cabin must have secured it down to the foundation quite well and for that I am thankful. If I had my bed sheets fashioned to my chair, paragliding would have been an event to remember.
My boat had been tossed and beaten against the ice and rocks, sending it down river the length of my anchor rope which was tight enough to now practice slacklining.
Waves pounded the bank, washing up rocks and debris, making it impossible to find clean water for drinking. Windows shaking and vibrating, massive sheets (tonnage) of snow scaling the roof and smashing the ground below. The cabin has been anything but quiet.

The good news? Its a heat wave of  41 degrees !!!! the snow is slush, the ice is water, and everything is a sore sight to see.
I have been asked two questions consistently and numerous times, the first being have I seen the movie called The Shining and the second is do I ever get warm? Well I can say yes to the first and no to the second, however I have been comfortable in the sauna, truly warm from head to toe....no.
This warm spell might change things, but it won't last for long...
 Prior to the tremendous display of mother natures huffing and puffing to blow my home over.....












The fox who answers to  nothing but whistles and smooching noises.... has been quite happy with my feeding him in exchange for a quick picture or few.









I am also pleased to say that my oar has been replaced and I was able to get back on the water for some fishing. Doing so from the bank was fruitless and actually more painful than anything. I have fell flat on my face a dozen times trying to walk over the ice, climbing up the slippery slopes and causing nothing but ugly bruises on my legs and arms. So back in the boat, the first five casts, four fish were caught. I kept two for the fox who is more than spoiled and probably the most doted upon in Alaska. I could argue that I'm not soft on him, just fattening him up for a nice pelt, however I don't plan on losing my only semi constant friend. It is a pure give and no take relationship, but that is alright.




The ice had continued to be very spectacular with daily decreasing temperatures, forming a new artwork collection called:   Negative Twelve ~



















So begins a new year, new resolutions and new dreams. Warm tropical destinations is on my mind today, but cleaning up the mess of last year both inside and outside is the chore for the days to come.
Salmon is on the menu, but I'll change the cous cous or quinoa to rice. I could use a donut, maple bar.