Saturday, October 9, 2010

Visitors

The sun rose this morning at approximately 9:54 and sat atop the middle mountain with the most snow. There was hardly a lake to see, between the reflection of the clear and unpolluted blue skies and the thick "quilt" not just a blanket of fog than loomed in the distance for what seemed to be miles and miles. There was not a bug nor bird in the air, only the warmth of my breath rising ever so slowly making known the wind had not yet awaken. Crystals of ice glistened off the trees and ground just for a moment as the sun brought their glory to an end, creating another puddle to be transformed again in tonight's dark and frozen hours. It felt so refreshing to take a breath that I didn't have to share with a soul. A breath of air that was just for me, no rush to exhale, no rush to inhale, it was just a great moment on another fantastic day in this amazing place. I thought about the city at that moment, about the hustle of people and the crowds in subways, on buses and in the streets, in particular New York, and shook my head wondering how they did it.
Today was no ordinary day, starting out promptly with telephone calls, emails and such, today was a big day as far as days out here are concerned. I was going to have visitors!
The night had already brought visitors of some sort, and I think it may have been a fox although I will have to do further investigation on the droppings it had left, that is my best guess as of today.


Visitors today would be people, and how many would remain unknown. There was a tragic event that claimed several lives this summer out at this particular lodge and now there is to be a story about two of the survivors airing on NBC Dateline. So as to the specifics, I am asked not to talk about any information regarding that particular accident and kindly specify the public and private property boundaries to any incoming guests. Some of the visitors came today in a very nice R44 based out of Dillingham. There were several boats that came by as well, and the film crew in an single engine Otter. I didn't have any interactions with the crew, only the guests in the chopper and a boat on the river as we were both drifting the same waters for Rainbows. It was odd to see people today, and although I have not been  out here long, it was good to see them and also good to get back to solitude. I was working on a little project today, between the phone and the hype of all this river drama, I was able to accomplish something I have been wanting to build for quite some time, about, well almost 8 years. I need to fine tune some things but it will appear on here hopefully my next entry.

Today's fishing was a real treat. Rainbows and Dolly Varden were out among the Char and not yet finished Sockeye Salmon. They were taking specially painted beads (a secret) and it sure was fun. However there has been a small obstacle to overcome, taking pictures of myself. Its hard enough to get a fish to be still when two people take it, let alone one. I wish I could have had more photos from some other great and beautiful fish, however it was necessary to release them in good health over taking a picture. This rainbow is about 3 pounds and every inch of him is fat with salmon eggs and/or flesh. The next is a Dolly Varden, a very good fighting fish, full of energy and hungry for that last meal before the freeze up.

So for my days out here, today has been excellent. I am looking forward to another brisk and clear night, with yet another visitor around 3:30 - 5:00 am give or take another hour. Orion can be seen in the Southern sky, shining as brilliant as if it were only as far as the sun. The stars are one of the best things about being up here, they are vivid and clear, they twinkle like they ought to, not because the smog of cities makes them dim an fuzzy. They shine with all they have, not being held back or diluted in any way. They are as free to do as they wish as I feel I am up here. They are separated from each other by distances we can only imagine and yet they give the appearance of being connected in our constellations. However it may be, I truly enjoy my awakening in the night to stoke a fire and gaze at more beauty of the natural world. One can't get enough of Nature, how beautiful it is and how much good it does for us to be in it.
From my little ol' cabin, Good Night*


Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Half way through the work week

Yesterday and today have both been absolutely, without a doubt just beautiful in most every sense of the word. The sun is shining, there is hardly a breeze and sometimes none at all. The fall colors look their best, snow capped peaks in the back drop, the occasional rise from fish in river, and here I am trying to take it all in. The only problem I can come up with is that with the warm weather and no breeze, the bugs are out and pesky as usual. There is almost nowhere to escape them, and I sure don't want to waste my day sitting inside hiding from little insects, I'll spend enough time when the temperatures drop below zero.
So on my I go, fishing the waters in front of my cabin, a hundred yards up stream and hundred down seem to be the best for Arctic Char and Rainbows. I may take the boat down river tomorrow and see if there are any good holes to try with the fly rod.





















I was scratching my head a bit today, wondering why I haven't seen any Ptarmigan ( Spruce hens) and behold I find three carcass's below the porch of the main cabin. I suspect I am not alone in enjoying the taste of these birds, the fox around here are known to come out this time of year. I'll keep on the lookout, and try to beat them to the birds. However, my hunting has been successful, a few more birds, and one of them was pre-stuffed....too bad I didn't want needles and leaves in my dressing.



The bear, or should I say bears, are out following in my footsteps, literally! I found fresh prints in my own tracks that I left yesterday. So while I was out scouting for firewood, I kept a watchful eye for the sow and cub, could be more than one though. The sow has a print of about the size of my face. I put a lighter there to show size and it sits in the cubs track. I'm definitely not alone.
Moose tracks are around, however they are hard to see. Often they won't show themselves, just being after hunting season and their tracks on my trail were about six inches long by five wide.
The firewood scouting went well, and I managed to find a Ptarmigan that the fox hadn't. That was encouraging and I may have to higher to find them if this behavior continues.
Today's finds of about two gallons of fresh cranberries were priceless. I plan to clean them and freeze most of them for Thanksgiving dinner, making a cranberry sauce from limited scratch. I'm very excited. The rest I'll stuff a bird with or dry, but either way, I beat the bears to them and makes me happy.
I was feeling a little extra creative this evening with my dinner menu so here it is:
*Seared King Salmon with celery seed and pepper on a bed of Quinoa with chopped walnuts, dried apricots and fresh basil. Lemon to taste.

The wine was just a nice complement to a great day, and being from Argentina, one couldn't pass it up.














I have been laying awake at night, listening to try and here some creak or crack of anything and without a doubt, there is nothing. When there is a random noise, it draws full attention to whatever it is and makes the heart pound a little harder knowing that something is making that noise, and hoping it will go away.
The other part of lying awake is figuring out exactly how long the fire lasts so I don't ever have to light a match or start a new fire in the middle of the night. So each night I wake at approximately 3:30 am to add more wood and it stays good until breakfast. Six hours each good stoke, that's what I figure.
So many things to contemplate, still talking aloud, still loving life!

Monday, October 4, 2010

Lesson Learned

The sunset last evening was a nice change from the scattered rain and low cloud cover. The night was much better than the first, not having to wake and stoke the fire multiple times. However, in not doing this, there were nothing but ashes this morning and just a slight chill in the air until I could start another fire for the morning tea. There was not much to do today, just to settle in both in my cabin and in my mind. I suppose its alright to start talking to myself, and I thought that it was peculiar at first but felt it was necessary for my thoughts to be expressed. Afternoon came quite quickly and snacking throughout the morning held my appetite at bay for a few more hours. This afternoon was filled with scattered showers, only lasting 2-5 minutes at a time, which was a relief considering my being out on the river....

You could say it was very successful, this little monster weighing in at around 5 pounds was the second cast and from there it was almost every cast....Those who have been up here or around these parts can testify to its amazing fisheries, be it lakes or rivers or streams.... just fantastic. I had a smile on my face the whole 1/2 hour I was out there, wishing the rain would let up so I could continue, but realizing that I've got tomorrow, and the next day and so on....for a while.
The air is pleasant and clean, despite the death that lays along the shore and the remains that the bears leave behind. The High Bush Cranberries are almost gone, only the tough ones remain clinging to the branches, just waiting for someone or something to pick them and enjoy. It will be a race between the bears and I to get them and savor the tart but juicy little scarlet red berries.  Tomorrow looks like it will be a nice day, and by nice I mean not freezing temperatures and no snow or heavy rain. Might just be a great day to take a hike or scout for some firewood.

So the funny story of the day is after cleaning some fish for dinner and tomorrow's breakfast, ( with which I'll have some eggs, the only 2 dozen I'll have during this time) and after getting in a quick work out I had the sauna roaring away for my makeshift shower/bath/cleaning time so I being the only person around for miles and miles, proceed to walk from my cabin to the sauna buck naked, no gun,(which I always carry), no clothes, just my towel in hand and a small bag of various soaps. I get about half way and up in the spruce tree are two Spruce Hens....Now that is an opportunity that I'd been waiting for but now with nothing to kill them with. I immediately drop all I have in my hands, running back to the cabin to grab my gun and get back before they fly off... I get the gun, run back, heart pounding making it hard to steady the sights, I can only see one of the two...so I put the sights right on, breathe, hold, BANG! DINNER!
It was a great feeling to have one bird, so off to the sauna I go with small drops of blood dripping down my leg... Cleaned up with bird in hand, I went back to dress and prepare the kill. I saved quite a few feathers for fly tying and made the legs and thighs for appetizers tonight before the fish. With a little caramelized garlic, butter and a red wine reduction they weren't half bad. Not game tasting, but slightly tough. I'll tenderize the breasts for tomorrows lunch or dinner and try it again. I learned a valuable lesson today. Never, even when bathing leave your gun behind. Never.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

I am Alaska day one...

Hello, my name is Kalon Pluma and I would like to share with you some stories from the Last Frontier known as Alaska. These stories have never been told before, mostly because they have not yet happened. Over the next 7 1/2 months, I will be caretaking a lodge in a very remote part of Bristol Bay, Alaska. There will be no other witnesses of the events to come, there will only be these posts and pictures to describe the adventures and hardships I will endure. I will be alone for the duration of this time, with an occasional visit from local Park Rangers and possibly snow machine enthusiasts that venture this far from the beaten path. The winter months are cold, long and dark (so I'm told) and extremely unforgiving to those that test mother nature. I hope that you will join me, to experience things that most will never have a chance to do and be a part of this journey into the Alaskan Wilderness.

My last ride with people(one person) for quite a long time....

This is my last leg of the journey, over 2000 miles away from Oregon and only minutes from Russia....sure is a different world out here. Three flights total, so it wasn't too bad getting here, although the turbulence on this little twin prop was....lets say a bit shaky. I was dreading the touch down on the water considering the small waves and fierce winds, we touched down only to be shot straight back up. With a little more power, the pilot successfully eased the belly of the plane back to the surface of the water and powered down to create a massive blanket of water covering the windshield and then calm....it was all over.
I had finally and safely reached my destination, a place I had previously been a year before in the summer months. Now here for the winter, I can already see its presence on the mountain tops, the last remainder of fall clinging to the birch trees soon to be blown away and bare for quite some time. The yellows and reds of the leaves are such a beautiful sight for the time being, knowing it all will vanish seemingly over night.